Installing LED tube lamps is a great way to save money on electricity and get potentially risky fluorescent lights from your house or workplace. But, most LED tube lights on the market nowadays can’t merely be directly installed in an existing fluorescent fixture. You will have to make some basic alterations to the fitting to properly install the lights. Fortunately that installing an LED tube light in an existing fluorescent fitting is relatively simple. Furthermore, you should be able to purchase fixtures especially developed for LED tube lights in the near future, and so they should really be cheaper compared to same fluorescent accessories. This article will provide a short summary explaining what you should know in order to install the new energy-saving fluorescent tube lamps in an existing fluorescent lighting fixture.
Fluorescent fittings are made to support a particular kinds and dimension of fluorescent tube. A phosphorescent tube is integrated in to a fluorescent lighting method which contains two or three main components: (1) the fluorescent light (fluorescent lamp or tube), (2) the ballast, and (3) the starter program. In addition, the system for a tube lamp includes a lamp holder and a change. According to the particular fluorescent lighting method, the basic may be a replaceable part, a starter may not be required, or the starter function may be integrated into the ballast. The starting function might also count on the physical layout of the fixture. To retrofit a fluorescent light fitting to support an LED tube light, the ballast (and the basic if a different one occurs) must be disconnected.
Make sure that the LED replacement tube lamps are the right size for the fitting. Also, always remember that when servicing a fluorescent fitting or lamp for any reason, electrical energy to the whole fixture should be disconnected. This isn’t usually sensible in scenarios where a great number of fixtures are managed from the same energy control (such as in open office areas). In these cases, insulating mitts and a nonmetallic ladder should be utilized if the fittings must be repaired when power exists.
You will need a few basic tools, including a wire cutter and wire stripper (often included into the same tool), a set of pliers, a screwdriver, and a few wire nuts for reconnecting the wires after you have eliminated the ballast.
Once the old lights are removed from the light holders and the electricity to the fixture is switched off, you’ll probably have to get rid of the reflector that is located behind the bulbs and provides a housing for the wiring and ballast that lay behind it. On average, it is pretty straightforward to eliminate the reflector or protect, but if it is not clear how to do this, you need to consult the instruction manual from the fixture manufacturing company.
If the fitting comes with an electronic ballast, you simply need to get rid of that and cable the energy straight to the light holders, completing one circuit for each bulb. That is fairly simple, and ordinarily you need to make use of the present wire inside the fixture and then only add some wire nuts. If you have an older fixture with a magnetic ballast and starter, you may have to eliminate or open the basic and remove or brief the magnetic ballast.
Depending how much line you have to work with, this is a good idea to leave long enough wires leading from the ballast to find a way to reunite the ballast with wire nuts, if you should ever want to transform the fitting back to use for fluorescent bulbs or want to use the ballast someplace else. Generally, the ballast will have two screws or bolts keeping it in place in the fixture, and these can be removed using a screwdriver or set of pliers, as appropriate. The ballast should be disposed of in compliance with local regulations as should the outdated fluorescent bulbs. Because the fluorescent lights contain a little number of highly-poisonous mercury, they should be treated as hazardous waste and disposed of so.
Once the ballast (and beginner, if one was present) have been removed and the cables reconnected to complete a routine for each lamp, substitute the reflector or cover over the cabling and the place where the ballast was found, and LED tubes could be put within the end sockets. Unlike fluorescent lights which don’t have a top or base, an LED tube light may have a clear top and base, with metal heatsink found on the rear of the tube and the LEDs visible under a lens on the side that will be directed towards the place to be lit. Set the cover back on the fitting (if there was one) and turn on the electricity. Turn on the switch and if you have done every thing properly, you should have as good or better lights making use of about half the electricity and lasting for as long as 50,000 hours or more.
Author: Mark EvansThis author has published 1 articles so far.