All types of vehicles are prone to rusting because of the ferrous metals used to create them. Also affecting the severity and speed of rusting are the car’s exposure to the elements and weather. The appearance might be bad but its effects on the structure are much worse. It’s interesting to note that more vehicles are sent to junkyards due to rusting than mechanical failure. A small portion that is seen outside might mean a crater of rust on the inside. Geography ,not only climate can make a difference . If you live in a maritime area near the sea , and have salt air, this is a consideration and perhaps you should buy a new car or a more premium model than a base Chevy or GMC truck. Premium models while the metal may not be thicker – its auto industry standard – will have more layers of paint as well as rust protective finishes.
There are several ways to avoid rust from spreading. First, there is an undercoat that is used by car manufacturers. Second, rustproofing can be applied when requested by the buyer. The standard factory undercoating is usually not enough to give complete protection. It covers metal surfaces with a compound that is petroleum based. Rustproofing can be a good investment if you don’t change cars often. It can even add 1 year to the life of the automobile. The most ideal time to rust proof before reaches 3,000 miles that’s around three months. Beyond this time, most cars have already accumulated moisture retaining grime which kicks of the rusting process. It’s not advisable to do so after the car has been exposed to wet areas especially sea salt. Some people may advise you that when you go car shopping that some brands are better than others. The logic is that some brands are more premium and use fresh metal rather than cheaper recycled metal. There may be merit in this idea . In other cases its car by car. If you used vehicle was sourced from Toronto Canada where they line the streets with salt in the winter- well its not a good sign. Before you buy that vehicle – say that you are a far away in The Pas , Churchill or Thompson Manitoba -an easy to be had online car-fax title and history search might be a good idea before you sign on the dotted line and finance the car or truck. Yet if you have purchased and are driving some old Ford in Winnipeg – then all in all – its wiser and best to take the rust bucket to an actual M.P.I. authorized collision center repair shop in say the Waverley Auto Mall or such a major automotive repair center in Manitoba. Regardless you might say – only if I buy an older Chevrolet Corvette with a fiberglass non-rusting body , or a stainless steel vintage Delorean vehicle can i ever avoid the rust game.
The kit contains detailed instructions and has enough material for a full-size car. The whole process, including cleaning and drying, will take 4-5 hours. Wear goggles to protect your eyes and have two sets of old clothes to change in. Rustproofing should not be done in humid weather when metal parts are damp. Do not treat any section that emits heat like the engine, radiator core, manifold, exhaust pipes, catalytic converter, drive shaft, manifold, and transmission. Seals, tubes, and gaskets can become brittle as it is the effect on rubber. This includes tires which should be covered in plastic or thick towels. Should you spill some on yourself, kerosene or a mineral solvent can remove it easily.
Prior to rustproofing, get professional steam-clean wash for your engine and its compartment. Clean the car thoroughly and use a wire brush to remove small particles, including loose rust. The brush is good to use for the hood, firewall, wheel cover panels, battery mount, mounting brackets and inside the trunk. Make sure that all the drain holes are clear as well.
Before applying the compound, remember these. Have the engine professionally cleaned. A brush can be used to clean loose rust from the body and cover the tires with plastic.
Common run of the mil metal Rust & oxidized metal – the scourge of automobile owners- – that you hopefully do not spot on your car – is composed of iron oxides. In colloquial usage, the term is applied to red oxides, formed by the reaction of iron and oxygen in the presence of water or air moisture.
Author: Jessica NiklasThis author has published 1 articles so far.